The Two Futures of Filipino Food: Memory and Market in Bacolod

When policy reaches the dinner table.

As the event ends, the team behind Terra Madre Asia Pacific stands together — reminding everyone that the work continues long after the tents are folded away.

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BACOLOD — When Terra Madre Asia Pacific opened its tents in Negros Occidental, the land still bore the marks of Tropical Storm Tino. Just days before the gathering, newly planted rice fields disappeared under floodwater, leaving farmers staring at washed-out rows where seedlings once held promise. Storms have always been part of life here — but lately, they feel less like interruptions and more like warnings.

At Terra Madre, regional cooks brought Indigenous ingredients and time-honored techniques to the table — a celebration of simplicity layered with heritage, flavor, and cultural memory.

By the time delegates arrived, the language of recovery had already faded. Instead, farmers walked in carrying sacks of seeds — not as display items, but as living protectors of memory. Indigenous leaders laid out grains with the tenderness of someone handling ancestral keepsakes. Chefs moved quietly: not as performers, but as intermediaries between soil and appetite.

A woman from Murcia lifted a handful of dark upland rice and let it fall slowly through her fingers. She wasn’t checking moisture or weight. She was looking for survival.

That single gesture made the stakes unmistakable.
This wasn’t a festival. It was a reckoning.

Ramon “Chin-Chin” Uy Jr. speaks on the future of agriculture in Negros — warning that adopting GMO crops risks weakening decades of work in organic farming, farmer autonomy, and biodiversity.

A Province at a Fork in the Field

For nearly two decades, Negros Occidental has carried the reputation of the Philippines’ organic stronghold. Its landmark 2007 GMO ban was more than administrative policy — it was a cultural declaration that agriculture here would be rooted in biodiversity, sovereignty, and farmer autonomy.

Now, that legacy is under review.

A proposed ordinance — positioned as modernization — would allow genetically modified corn and soybeans into the province, primarily for livestock feed. Advocates argue that without GM inputs, poultry and hog producers will continue losing ground to cheaper imported meat. Feed makes up as much as 70 percent of production costs, and GM crops promise efficiency.

But opponents warn that the door does not open halfway. If GMO feed enters now, what prevents patented seeds from eventually replacing native rice varieties that have survived colonization, climate shifts, and centuries of local selection?

Ramon “Chin-Chin” Uy Jr., Slow Food Councilor for Southeast Asia and founder of Fresh Start Organics, articulated the tension plainly. Negros’ identity, he said, was built deliberately through systems rooted in community, sustainability, and shared stewardship. Allowing GM crops risks weakening the province’s hard-earned premium agricultural reputation, eroding farmer autonomy, and collapsing biodiversity critical for climate resilience.

In his words, “If we trade sovereignty for convenience, we lose more than crops — we lose who we are.”

At Cantina de Tita A in Cavite City, Agnes Poblete and Ice Ramos prepare demi en cavité-style bacalao — honoring tradition while making it Filipino with dried labahita in place of cod.

The Argument for Innovation

But the government does not move on sentiment alone.

Representative Albee Benitez, whose district sits at the intersection of tourism, agriculture, and economic development, offered a different reading of the moment. Negros, he said, has the opportunity to lead not only in heritage but in innovation — to build a system capable of meeting rising demand, climate volatility, and global market pressure.

“Negros must lead not just in food heritage, but in food innovation,” he said. “We cannot fear the future — we must shape it.”

That exchange — not heated, but firm — revealed the true crossroads:
The debate is not science versus tradition. It is sovereignty versus dependence. Local autonomy versus global alignment. Resilience versus scale.

Seeds as Memory, System, and Law

In the seed hall, delegates did not see artifacts. They saw a living archive.

Conservation biologist Harold O. Buenvenida reminded visitors that seeds are more than inputs — they are ecological memory, storing thousands of years of adaptation to soil, climate, and season.

Members of the Aeta community from Central Luzon joined the event to share ancestral knowledge — wisdom carried not through books, but through memory, practice, and place.

 

But for Indigenous communities, seeds also carry cosmology.
Among the Panay Bukidnon, planting follows ancestral timing: clearing fields after the limukun bird’s call, sowing upland rice during the full moon to encourage fullness, planting tubers during the new moon when the soil is cool and receptive.

If these seeds are contaminated or lost, that knowledge system collapses. A map becomes unreadable.

Storm as Signal

Years ago, environmental advocate Gina Lopez warned that unchecked extractive development — mining, deforestation, commercial monocropping — would destabilize the landscapes that sustain life. In Negros, her words now feel less prophetic and more documented. The flood lines left by Tropical Storm Tino served as quite proof: environmental neglect eventually writes itself into soil, water, and yield.

The climate crisis is no longer approaching.
It is already rewriting the agricultural calendar.

The Question No One Answered

On the third day, during a quiet discussion inside the Indigenous Pavilion, youth farmer and Panay Bukidnon seed keeper Rennel Lavilla stood up and asked the question that cut through policy language and competing visions.

“We talk about innovation and heritage,” he said. “But will these decisions help us keep farming — or will farming become something people only remember in museums?”

Then he added, almost apologetically:

“We do not easily share our grains with researchers because we don’t know what will happen to our palay.”

No one in the room corrected him.
Because everyone knew: the distrust was earned.

The irony was striking. Days before Terra Madre, a government official suggested that ₱500 could cover a Filipino Noche Buena. In Bacolod, where farmers stood guarding seed diversity with their own hands, that claim felt disconnected. Food affordability is not a budgeting exercise — it is the outcome of every policy that made food fragile.

At Terra Madre, these chefs explore how coconut connects culture, cuisine, and community — from heritage recipes to future food systems. Left to right: Chef Hafizzul Hashim of Restaurant Fiz (Singapore), Chef Ran Uy of The Fatted Calf PH, Chef Jayjay Sycip, Chef Rhea Sycip, and Chef Waya Araos-Wijangco.

What Bacolod Leaves Behind

When Terra Madre Asia Pacific closed, there were no triumphant declarations — only the quiet persistence of unfinished work.

Negros now stands between two futures:

One shaped by biotechnology, efficiency, and uniformity.
One rooted in biodiversity, sovereignty, and memory.

Both promise abundance.
Only one promises continuity.

And somewhere beyond the conference tents, in fields still drying after the floods, the land waits — listening — to see which future Filipinos will choose.

Read more Stories on Simpol.ph

Reflections on Terra Madre in Bacolod

Terra Madre Asia Pacific 2025: The Philippines Welcomes the World to Bacolod

Cherrie Atilano: Leading with Dignity in Filipino Agriculture

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