My good friend Sharwin Tee has once again returned, this time at the Manila Marriott Hotel’s Marriott Cafe. He’s a man on a mission, to let as many Filipinos learn more about his specialty, Tsinoy Cuisine. I’ve known him for over a decade, from his iconic TV show, “Curiosity Got The Chef”, to his bestselling series of books, highlighted by “So You Want To Be A Chef”. All good viewing and reading. And of course, we have the same idol, the late great Anthony Bourdain.
Sinagtala Famsgiving Tsinoy Cuisine Festival
Up until the end of September, during dinners every Wednesday and Thursday, he’ll be manning the kitchen at the Marriott, for the “Sinagtala Famsgiving Tsinoy Cuisine” edition, where the classics, and the best of the best of Chinese-Filipino dishes, are demystified and fully explained. The festival also aims to shine a light on Tsinoy cuisine as a distinct part of the Philippines’ rich culinary heritage.
The Roots of Sharwin’s Culinary Passion
So what is “Tsinoy Cuisine”? I asked Sharwin this, and he told me that as a child, he was instantly interested in those specific dishes, watching as his grandmother cooked the dishes. And like most Chinese families, the boys were banned from the kitchen, it was really a matriarchal zone. So he managed to peek, from a distance, as his “Ahma” cooked the days away. But soon, the budding chef found a way to try out the recipes he learned from afar, his taste buds, early on, were his ultimate test.
The Ultimate Tsinoy Dish: Kiam Peng
One of the first dishes he cooked was “Kiam Peng”, It’s what he considers the ultimate Tsinoy dish. Also called Kiampong, it is the dish from when life was tough—for example, how would you stretch your budget? The four key ingredients are pork, mustard greens, rice, and soy sauce. They were very cheap ingredients. If you had more people, you’d add more rice and soy sauce. It was a dish meant to beat the budget. It was a standard dish in the Tee household, and for Sharwin, it was not unusual. These days, more and more Filipinos find their way to Binondo, and yes, this dish is a standard, with many different variations, in Chinatown dining.
The Evolution of a Culinary Heritage
“Chinese dishes were made with Filipino tastes or Filipino ingredients in mind, and then it became a Tsinoy dish. It’s a natural evolution. Maybe at first it was closer to Chinese food, but now it has become distinct and uniquely ours.” And by “ours”, Sharwin refers to the growing acceptance, and appreciation, of the Tsinoy Cuisine among Filipinos.
Sampling the Feast at Marriott Cafe
I’ve been convinced of Sharwin’s goals for many years now, and his Marriott feast was an all-you-can-eat buffet of Tsinoy goodies, and I didn’t waste time. First up was the heritage “Kiam Peng”, excellent Tsinoy fried rice, which complemented the main dishes, and also, I have to admit, great on its own. It gave a whole new meaning to “Kanin Pa Lang, Ulam Na!”
First of the viands, the “Diok Pit He”, the delicious deep fried stuffed shrimp, which we would refer to as Camaron Rebosado. They were juicy, and deeply addicting. Then I moved on to “Tao Meng Tsai”, seafood cooked with hair vegetables, the sauce perfect on the rice. The “hairy” vegetables are called “Fat Choy”, made from terrestrial moss. Delicious! And finally, Pata Tim!!! This was a perfect ending to the meal, as I so love the round fleshy skin around the bones, and that unmistakable sauce. And for dessert, it was the Spicy Taro Sago, another surprise from Sharwin, as the spice hits, and fades away instantly. Amazing.
Tsinoy Cuisine as Pinoy Culture
Afterwards, we spent another hour with tea, as we asked the chef all our questions. One thing was clear after all the dishes that we finished, and all the answers given by Sharwin. That “Tsinoy” is becoming more and more Pinoy, it was all a matter of opening our eyes, and letting our taste buds do what they do best. Let’s Eat!
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