Thirty floors above Ortigas, in the penthouse of the Westin Manila, a restaurant quietly redefines Spanish dining in the city. Cantabria by Chele is not just another fine dining destination—it’s a deeply personal tribute to heritage, memory, and place.
Cantabria, a rugged region in northern Spain, sits between the Atlantic and the mountains. Tucked just west of the Basque Country, it’s a place known for wild coastlines, lush green hills, and a cuisine that draws deeply from both land and sea. Anchovies from Santoña, beef from the valleys, sobao cakes, and quesadas—it’s a region of quiet abundance. It’s also the birthplace of Chef José Luis “Chele” Gonzalez, one of the most influential chefs working in the Philippines today.
A Chef Comes Full Circle
Chef Chele at ease. On this night, he steps out of the kitchen and into the dining room—sharing stories, laughter, and wine with friends. With Chef Álvaro holding down the pass, Chele embraces the role of host, letting the food—and the memories—speak for themselves.
Over a decade ago, I met Chele when he opened Vask, a restaurant that helped introduce modern Spanish cuisine to Manila. Back then, his resume was already formidable—having worked at El Bulli, Arzak, and other globally renowned kitchens. What struck me most, though, was his passion for local ingredients and his openness to Philippine flavors.
Since then, we’ve seen him evolve through Gallery by Chele, Deli by Chele, and Catering by Chele, along with regional expansions in Tagaytay and Cebu. But this new concept feels different—more introspective, more grounded. With Chef de Cuisine Álvaro Romero-Abreu Raya by his side, Chele has created a menu that’s not about reinvention, but about remembrance.
Setting the Scene
Inside Cantabria by Chele, the elegance is quiet but intentional. Earth-toned walls, handcrafted Spanish tiles, and generous spacing between tables create a space meant for unhurried meals and meaningful conversation.
It’s not just a dining room—it’s a room that listens.
The night began with their signature sangria–subtly smoky, thanks to a freshly torched thyme sprig. It was balanced and fragrant, an aromatic prelude to the courses ahead.
Tapas with Depth
We started with a salmon tartare with torched scallops and coconut cream. Delicate, clean. But it was the Ostra Manzana y Lima-Limón—an oyster with green apple and citrus granita—that truly captured the essence of Cantabria. It was cold, briny, and vibrant. A bite of the Atlantic, reimagined in Manila.
The tapas came one after another, each one familiar but playfully reimagined. The Croquetas de Jamón Ibérico were textbook in their crispness, breaking open to reveal a lush, creamy filling rich with aged ham. The Gambas al Ajillo arrived sizzling—heady with garlic, oil, and just enough heat to linger. But it was the Tortilla Española Crujiente that sparked the most surprise: the humble Spanish omelet reinvented in delicate panipuri shells—crispy, light, and quietly brilliant.
Each bite honored its roots, but wasn’t afraid to stretch its legs.
Anchored by Memory
The Entrante was a baby squid ink stew with snow peas—comforting and layered in texture. But it was the two mains that stood out most.
First: Rodaballo a la Parrilla, grilled turbot. Cooked simply and served whole, it was the exact dish Chele remembers from his childhood. Clean, delicate, and reverent, it was a dish that needed no garnish beyond salt and flame. I followed Chele’s childhood ritual and cleaned the plate the same way—hands included.
Sometimes, it’s best to obey your chef.
Then came a showstopper: Wagyu and Bone Marrow Paella. The richness of the bone marrow melted into the rice, and the wagyu was seared to a perfect medium-rare. It was elegance and rusticity in one pan—flavors layered and unapologetic.
Grilling the Rodaballo — No garnish, no theatrics. Just flame, salt, and precision. For Chef Chele, this turbot isn’t just a dish—it’s a memory from his childhood in Cantabria, now brought to life with reverence and restraint on the grill.
Sweet Goodbyes
For dessert, we had the Sobao Pasiego, a traditional Cantabrian sponge cake, served with vanilla ice cream and berry coulis. But the final act was even more memorable: Soufflé de Chocolate, Calabaza y Pistachio. A warm, spoonable chocolate “soup” topped with roasted pumpkin and pistachios—unusual, comforting, and indulgent in the best way.
Chef Álvaro Romero-Abreu Raya brings the soul of Spain into every dish at Cantabria by Chele. A quiet force in the kitchen, he cooks with memory, discipline, and emotion—honoring heritage while letting each plate speak for itself.
A Welcome Return
Cantabria by Chele isn’t just another concept—it’s a homecoming. A restaurant born from memory, place, and emotion. With Chef Álvaro joining the fold, Chele’s vision of marrying tradition with identity becomes even more resonant.
To Álvaro—bienvenido.
And to Chele—thank you, once again, for sharing your story with us, this time through the flavors of your own childhood.
This may be your most personal restaurant yet—and perhaps your most enduring.
Cantabria by Chele
Penthouse Level, The Westin Manila
San Miguel Avenue, Ortigas Center, Mandaluyong City
Metro Manila, Philippines
Phone: +63 2 8250 8888
Email: reservations@cantabriabychele.com
Website: www.cantabriabychele.com
Instagram: @cantabriabychele
