I really recommend this restaurant on F. Ortigas Jr.’s Agustin I building. Its size is just right for a quick bite, a casual lunch, or a late dinner date. It’s called Ginza, and it has a charm about it. That is why diners keep on coming back.
A Charming Spot and Michelin Beginnings
Previously, I was last here in June for the Tonkatsu of Chef Hironobu Horiuchi. He is the visionary behind Tonkatsu Horiichi, a 12-seater eatery tucked away in Shimbashi, Tokyo. It received Michelin Bib Gourmand awards in 2023 and 2024. His double-frying technique on the prized black pork, the Kurobuta, was exceptional. As far as Tonkatsu meals go, it was undeniably good and quite memorable to this day.
Welcoming a New Master Chef
This month, another Michelin Chef is making an appearance at Ginza.
He is Masahiko Kodama of Tokyo’s Yakitori Masakichi, which has been recognized with distinction by Michelin, and by David Chang in his popular food program, Ugly Delicious. Now, I am definitely a Yakitori foodie. Growing up, I frequented the old Malate neighborhood. Late in the night by the church, my friends and I would choose our favorites from a Filipino vendor. He had learned the art of Japanese Barbecue from his previous employer. It was certainly delicious, and I still recall the excellent charcoal notes of each stick. That Filipinzed Yakitori stall is long gone now, but my appetite for grilled skewers of meat remains.
Eventually, I received the invite from my good friend Patricia. I traveled all the way from Makati to Ortigas at the peak of rush hour. Unsurprisingly, the drive took longer than anticipated. By the time I reached Ginza, I was ravenous! After our initial greetings, she ushered me into my favorite area of the restaurant. We let the feast begin, just in time. I was introduced to the Chef right before he retreated back to the kitchen to prepare my meal. He could not speak English, but his kind attitude spoke volumes.
The Feast and Main Event
Although it was dinner time, the Chef made sure I could taste one of his specials.
It was the Tontoro, a breakfast platter of paper-thin sliced pork, broiled and not fried to a crisp perfection. It came with scrambled eggs and garlic gohan, a.k.a. garlic fried rice. It was life-saving for the hungry diner and prepped my stomach for the courses to come…
Next came the Tori Liver Pate, the chef’s very special pate. It was served with strawberries, kiwis, and blueberries for contrast on slices of crisp brioche.
Following that was Wakadori Kuwayaki, light karaage with the chicken pieces tossed in a soy garlic sauce. Scrumptious! There were two appetizers, each distinct and, to be frank, quite addicting. It was a pleasure to cruise through these two.
Then came the main event—what I drove through traffic for.
It was the Kodama Special Yakitori Platter Set, which comes with 15 sticks in total and is easily good for two diners. A small robata grill accompanies the Yakitori Platter Set upon serving, allowing guests to reheat their skewers as they please. The yakitori included: Momo, or thigh; Negima, thigh and leeks; Tsukune, chicken meatballs with grated cured egg yolk; Tebasaki, wings; Seseri, chicken neck; Kawa, chicken skin; Boniri, tail or the magnificent butt; and the vegetable and chicken skin skewer.
I confess, I ate all except for one. If you guessed I missed the vegetable, you’re absolutely correct.
My top choices were reminiscent of the memories of my old-time choices in Malate: the chicken skin and, yes, the excellent crispy tail. All were good—super good, to be precise. I would definitely love to come back for one more session!
Michelin Tonkatsu first, and now, Michelin Yakitori. I can’t wait to find out the next great Japanese chef who will be in the kitchen of Ginza. It is a low-key Japanese restaurant, but with a high-end quality of cuisine. It is very different and very unique. It definitely should be on everyone’s list to travel all across Metro Manila to discover Ginza!
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