I met Juano Gutierrez almost a decade ago, when he was the pitmaster of Holy Smokes BBQ, a cozy and smart little barbecue joint in the Poblacion, during its early days. We met because of former President Noynoy Aquino, who in 2017, was living the simple life of an ex-public official, visited Holy Smokes, and loved it. Juano posted a picture of the visit, and then boom! The trolls of that era inundated the Holy Smokes page with a lot of nonsense.
Juano played it cool, and eventually the diatribes died down, but that was enough cause for me to visit, dine at, and eventually cover Holy Smokes for the Philippine Star. I loved it. He had a gigantic smoker for all the barbecue he was smoking, and it was slow cooked for over sixteen hours, over fragrant wood. In 2022, he and his wife Maisa shifted gears, closed Holy Smokes, and opened Burnt Bean. It’s the restaurant where culinary artistry meets smoky perfection, an elevated Holy Smokes, and it’s an amazing success in its two branches, Podium and in the BGC.
A Chef with Spanish Flair
Miguel Vecin, I’ve been covering for ages, from my television show to newspaper articles, and he always arrived with an aura, that of a Spanish chef, and he always delivered. I remember shooting him inside a tiny kitchen years ago, and his dishes always came out delicious. The chef, forever smiling. Eventually, he started offering his Callos on weekends and no surprise, it became a bestseller.
Now, when I visited their new restaurant, Wilde Dining, I fully expected an innovative selection of grilled items, American and Spanish, based on their previous experience, so imagine my surprise when I saw the menu, full of European expressions. I’d seen the gorgeous photos on social media, but surprise after surprise awaited my tastebuds. It honestly felt like a buffet criss-crossing the continent of Europe. Nothing Asian or Filipino, but a strict diet of European dining. And I was ready for it.
Europe on a Plate
The Ajo Blanco was first on the agenda. An almond soup with hamachi, and studded with compressed green apples, grapes, yuzu, and chili. The dish, Spanish in origin and almost Vegan. It was creamy but not cloying, and outstandingly fruity. This was followed by the Chistorra Manchego Brulee Dip, the chistorra sausage, a product of the Basque country, and this was easily one of the highlights for most guests that evening. We’d dip the bread into the pan, and come up with a slightly spicy and definitely cheesy bite. Excellent!
From Italy to Portugal
The ‘Nduja, arose from the Calabria region of Italy and it’s a spreadable pork sausage, spread on mussels, to create the next dish. I’m more of a seafood eater these days, and these ‘Nduja Mussels really fit the bill. The bright orange color was a very attractive signal to me, start musseling in! The Pulpo, miso gochujang glazed, topped with spiced pork ear chicharron. The octopus, a national dish of Portugal, was fatty in texture and all sorts of delicious, and this was a favorite too.
Of course, I could not resist my current favorite part of the cow, the Beef Cheeks. This French favorite is slow cooked, at least five hours, and my gosh, how tender it was. Enrobed in a rich red wine sauce, and pistachio gremolata, and for good measure, a sprinkling of horseradish on the mashed potato, this was my second best overall dish of the evening. And the way the beef cheeks looked on the plate? Stunning.
The specific dish I ordered, upon the instructions of Juano and Miguel, was the Fish & Chips. The United Kingdom’s favorite food, I’ve been searching for excellent versions in the Philippines for years, and this was another resounding success. First off, the fish: a Halibut fillet! I’ve been looking for that for years, and finally it’s here. Perfectly beer battered, served with malt vinegar, and an unforgettable tartar sauce. When I got the plate, I couldn’t resist taking a moment to appreciate its beauty. The fish and fries, all over, managed by the ramekins holding the vinegar and the sauce. I was in heaven, and proceeded to devour my favorite dish!
One Last Stop
Dessert was Caramel Popcorn, so I guess that’s American? It was intensely good, so I am not complaining. And so I visited Spain, Italy, France, Britain, the Basque Region, and Portugal all in one evening. The menu is still being finalized by Miguel, but the potential for perfection is really there. I cannot wait to go back, and have more of this border crossing genius. Good to see Juano and Maisa once more, almost ten years from our Poblacion days!
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