Oddly enough, it was from my mother that I first heard about the passing of Margarita Araneta Forés. My mom worked her whole life at Philippine Airlines, and I’m guessing one of her former officemates heard the news first. A few minutes later, I received a handful of text messages — and before the hour had passed, the trickle had turned into a flood. I assume that because I work in the inner circles of food and beverage, people thought I had to know.
It’s been surprising, in the three days since, how all my social media feeds have transformed into tributes to Asia’s Best Female Chef. From Facebook to Viber, Instagram to Threads, gratitude fills every post. Most recall how Gaita introduced them to the pleasures of Italian cuisine through Cibo, how she inspired them to cook, and how she encouraged them to explore the vast culinary world.
For those of us fortunate enough to know her, the most striking thing was how unexpectedly warm she was — friendlier than we ever imagined — and more than that, she cared. No matter how small or seemingly trivial the concern, she gave you a look and a tone of voice that made it clear: she truly cared.
And no, it wasn’t just about her knowledge or experience. It was the sincerity — the priceless words of encouragement that stayed with you. Whether you were at the top of your career or just starting out, the takeaway was always the same: she cared.
I remember when we honored her as Chef of the Year in 2019. She arrived earlier than expected and watched every awardee receive their recognition. And when her turn came — the grandest award of the night — she gave a speech. No embellishments, no grand flourishes. Just an honest declaration of her love for her industry. It was, as many who listened that night would agree, the perfect speech for that audience.
A year later, deep into the pandemic, I was tasked by Resto PH and SM Malls management to create an audiovisual campaign reassuring people that it was safe to return to the malls. A simple phone call was all it took to enlist my star: Gaita. In mere minutes, she was in front of the camera — mask off, beaming — inviting people back with warmth and confidence.
That was the Margarita Araneta Forés I knew. The one so many of us knew.
The word I see most often used to describe her is “icon.” And while that’s true, I’d like to add another: “beacon.”
Because that’s what Gaita was. A great example, a bright, shining light — a beacon of hope.
Editor’s Note: This article has been edited for clarity, style, and coherence while preserving the Simpol.ph columnist’s original voice and intent.