Eight years ago, I invited Chef Redd Agustin to be my guest on my television program. I didn’t know him that well yet, but I was curious, because he let me sample his Bagnet, the Ilocano deep fried crispy and crunchy pork belly, and immediately, I was a fan. Turns out, Redd had a lot of products, including the Best Bagoong Ever, and yes, that’s in all caps, because it was. Just right salty, and with chunks of bagnet in the ingredients? I actually used it as my viand, with nothing else on top of the rice. Sold!
Then the pandemic happened, but Chef Redd kept on sending good stuff to my house, including the glorious Dinakdakan and Chorizo Burgers, and I became a very loyal client. And of course, I never missed an order of the Bagnet! Time flew by, Covid disappeared, and we both went our separate ways, but always kept up with each other via Facebook. The chef now lives in Batangas, and recently, was contacted by Raymund Magdaluyo, of Wolfgang’s fame, to handle the ROB’S restaurant in the Newport World Resorts.
A New Chapter for ROB’S
ROB’S originally stood for Ribs, Oysters, and Bourbon, three favorites of the chef it’s named after, Robby Goco. After three or so years, it was time to tweak the menu a little. Filipino cuisine was making dynamic inroads in the personal preference of diners all over, and it was time to come up with a Filipino-centric menu. Enter Chef Redd. A man who started his career with Jeremiah Tower, known as The Last Magnificent, when the American gentleman put up his California cuisine restaurant in Glorietta in the 1990s; after which, Chef Redd built his own sterling reputation via teaching in culinary schools and through his unique Filipino fare, The Pork Project.
When I bumped into Chef Redd recently, he invited me to ROB’S, perhaps now with a new menu, and I immediately asked him, “Are you serving your Bagnet!?!” When he smilingly answered yes, I scheduled a dinner date at the soonest possible time.
A Brighter ROB’S
The new version of ROB’S is definitely brighter, and more welcoming for Filipino patrons. Brighter walls and new artwork. It was exciting, and made me full of anticipation. Chef Redd was already busy in the kitchen, so I had an Old-Fashioned cocktail. So I asked, is the B in ROB’S now for booze? B is for Bar, actually. Good choice, with less limitations. The night started out well.
Oysters, Tinola, and Bicol Express
The first act in Chef Redd’s new menu was the staggeringly good Tinola Chawanmushi, a silky Japanese steamed egg custard with Aklan oysters, lump crabmeat, ginger and chili leaves. It certainly had the tinola flavor, combined with sly Japanese custard. Masterpiece. It was an epic way to start dinner.
The show started soon after, with the house specialty, the oysters. We had the Salted Egg Butter, broiled oysters with rich salted egg butter that complemented the oceanic oysters beautifully. Salt and Brine. The next was a surprise: Bicol Express, oysters with coconut cream, chilies and bagoong. Now mention the word “gata” and whatever the dish is, that’s my next favorite. And this Bicol Express, Naga and Legazpi would be proud to serve this!
From Ilocos to the Grill
Crab Poqui-Poqui, inspired by Ilocos as well, was next. Delightfully creamy, the smoky charred eggplant sautéed with tomatoes, onions and egg, then folded with sweet lump crabmeat. The sweetish notes made for a playful platter, and the tender crabmeat was fine indeed. It was served with the Grilled Pusit Skewers, one of the best dishes of the evening, local squid brushed with a sweet-savory calamansi-garlic glaze and served with pomelo salad. A party in my mouth, as my friend Jane used to say!
Pork, Smoke, and Filipino Barbecue
Next up, the pork dishes! The Grilled Liempo Insarabasab, the name comes from an Ilocano word meaning “something burned in fire,” giving the meat a distinct, smoky, charred flavor from open-flame charcoal grilling, so it’s chargrilled pork belly with pomelo, onions, tomatoes and chilies in calamansi–sukang Iloko dressing, was the perfect prequel to one of the restaurant’s specialties, the BBQ Pork Ribs, the Chef’s take on backyard Pinoy barbecue—baby back ribs in a banana ketchup–soy marinade, chargrilled until smoky, sticky and deeply savory. Again, another favorite, how could you resist? I had bite after delectable bite. Delish!
The Bagnet Returns
At last, it was time for the main event. For me, after waiting years to have Chef Redd’s Bagnet once more, this time, in an elegant restaurant setting, was a dream come true. The Crispy Bagnet Liempo, completely crunchy pork belly served with crispy pata sauce and the special liver lechon sauce, came exactly as advertised. And once more, it reminded me of the times I spent in Laoag, buying kilos of bagnet from the market early in the morning, to Chef Redd’s bagnet home deliveries years ago, and I was in heaven. This is one dish you should not miss when dining at ROB’S. And yes, to honor it, may I suggest that the B stand for Bagnet?
A Sweet Ending
Dessert was Ube Inutak, a sticky coconut rice cake with ube and a caramelized coconut cream topping. Again, gata. Of course I finished this, caramelized gata. I’m so there. And as my group patted our significantly less modest tummies, I spotted Chef Redd, by the bar, smiling his Cheshire Cat smile, no doubt, already thinking of new ways to surprise diners at the new ROB’S! I’ll surely see you there!
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