I arrived at Le Feu Steakhouse with no expectations, only the hope of an enjoyable meal. What I found was something more: an experience that blended familiarity with refinement, old-world Parisian grandeur with a contemporary touch.
The restaurant, nestled near the entrance of San Antonio Village in Makati, exudes a quiet elegance. Its warm lighting, plush seating, and a carefully curated lo-fi soundtrack, a mix of mellow beats and soft instrumentals, set the stage for an evening of unpretentious but thoughtful dining.
At the helm of Le Feu is Chef Kevin Villarica, whose name may be familiar to those who follow Manila’s evolving culinary landscape. Before this, he co-founded Hapag, a restaurant known for its modern interpretation of Filipino cuisine. But here, at Le Feu, his mission is different. “A dish should remind me of past experiences, something that gives me comfort and happiness when I eat it,” Chef Villarica said, his philosophy evident in every plate that left the kitchen.
The meal began with a prawn bisque, velvety and rich, yet delicately balanced with spices and aromatics. What followed was a Wagyu Caesar salad, where the addition of thinly sliced Wagyu lent a layer of umami depth without overwhelming the crisp romaine and parmesan. Then came the halibut in lemon-caper sauce, its execution strikingly French — restrained, polished, and confident in its simplicity. But the centerpiece of the evening was the picanha steak, an often-overlooked cut that is a staple in Brazilian churrascarias. Here, it was treated with reverence, served unembellished save for a drizzle of chimichurri and a sprinkle of flaky salt. The herbaceous sharpness of the chimichurri cut through the meat’s natural richness, while the salt amplified its deep, beefy character. The 1-kilogram porterhouse was equally well-prepared, but the picanha stood out, not just for its bold flavor but for its understated perfection.
There was a dish that carried a deeper meaning beyond the steaks. The pesto de Gaita, a new addition to the menu, is Chef Villarica’s tribute to the late Chef Gaita Fores, a beloved figure in the Philippine culinary world. The pasta, elegant in its restraint, felt like a quiet homage rather than a grand statement, much like the overall approach of Le Feu itself. The prix fixe menu was another highlight, a thoughtful way to make the steakhouse experience more accessible without compromising on quality.
Service was polished yet unobtrusive, a balance that not all fine dining establishments achieve. There were moments where it could have been a touch more intuitive, but nothing that detracted from the evening. With slight refinements, Le Feu could very well cement itself as one of Makati’s top steakhouse destinations.
What lingered with me most was not what Chef Villarica did, but what he chose not to do. He resists the urge to chase trends or impress with theatrics. His cooking is honest, rooted in personal nostalgia, and confident enough to let the food speak for itself.
Dessert, in keeping with the theme, was a chocolate cake that struck the right balance between indulgence and restraint — its richness reminiscent of a Snickers bar, with just enough nuance to elevate it beyond the familiar. A poached apple tart followed, delicate and understated, the kind of dessert you eat slowly, savoring the last moments of the meal.
Long after my plate was cleared and my tea had cooled, I found myself lingering, not out of obligation, but because Le Feu offers something rare, which is a meal that feels personal, where every dish is shaped not by ego but by memory.
Le Feu Steakhouse is located near the entrance of San Antonio Village, Makati. Follow them on Facebook: facebook.com/lefeusteakhouse
