Some restaurants feed you. Others, like Sugi Japanese Restaurant Makati, welcome you home.
I’ve known Inés Cabarrus-Habayeb long before Instagram reels and TikTok edits became part of our dining lives. Even before she married Elian—yes, that Elian, DJ, dancer, and taco king—we were already part of the same warm, food-loving circle. Back then, they hosted the now-legendary Manila’s Best Kept Restaurant Secrets (MBKRS) Awards, the Oscars for Manila’s dining scene.
I still remember when Bruce Ricketts was crowned Best Emerging Talent and Tonyboy Escalante of Antonio’s won Best Continental Chef. It was 2014, the dress code was black tie, and food was already culture.
The Glory of Sugi, Then and Now
But more than the parties and the burritos (Chihuahua Mexican Grill was a vibe), what I’ll always associate with Inés is Sugi. A timeless Japanese institution her father helped found over 40 years ago, Sugi Japanese Restaurant Makati has been a beloved fixture for generations. From Greenbelt to its newest home along Palm Drive, across Holiday Inn and Glorietta 4, Sugi has never skipped a beat.
The new location is a revelation. Designed by Architect Lara Fernandez Barrios, the space opens with a stone façade that feels grand, almost sacred. But step inside, and it’s all light—floor-to-ceiling windows, warm wood tones, soft reflections. You feel transported. Japan, without the passport.
Some Things Don’t Change—and That’s the Magic
Despite the makeover, the Sugi you love remains intact. The team is still here—Inés and her managers kept the entire staff on salary during the relocation. That decision says everything about their values. Service here isn’t just efficient—it’s familial.
And the food? Still stellar.
Our lunch began with Salmon Aburi Maki, an indulgent ebi fry roll topped with torched salmon, tobiko, and haikara flakes. The richness of the salmon made it a starter that could easily stand in as a main.
We followed that with a new seasonal highlight: a gorgeous assortment of Inari sushi—topped with spicy tuna, spicy salmon, unagi, shirashi, and negi toro. Six distinct bites, each with its own voice, like a sushi tasting playlist curated by Chef Kenichi Kasahara.
Every four months, Chef Kenichi rotates seasonal dishes across Sugi’s kitchen departments—sushi, grill, fry, teppanyaki. It’s a quiet flex. A reminder that heritage doesn’t mean standing still.
“Some things should not change. Sugi’s setting this trend for good.”
A Taste That Travels Through Time
Then came the Tempura—extra-large prawns, extra-crisp batter. The kind of perfection that made me flash back 25 years to my very first Sugi experience. I’d just gotten a promotion. My boss insisted I try Cha Soba and Coffee Jelly. I still remember the matcha noodles, the cold slurp, and the bittersweet jiggle of that dessert. I ordered both again. And guess what? They tasted exactly the same.
That’s not nostalgia. That’s excellence.
From Sugi’s Grill: Familiar Comforts, Seasonal Surprises
We tried three mains. First, the classic Wafu Steak—tenderloin with winter mushrooms and tofu in a savory teppanyaki glaze. A house favorite, still beloved across generations.
Then, two seasonal gems:
- Buta Bara Amakari Yaki, melt-in-your-mouth pork belly, marinated in Sugi’s house-made kimchi.
- Kaijiki Steak, blue marlin with fresh bell peppers and onions, perfectly seared.
They arrived like gifts. Honest, bold, and beautifully plated. By then, the sparkling sake had made several appearances. It was 3 p.m., and Inés—smiling as always—nearly uncorked another bottle.
When Food Becomes Memory
This wasn’t just a lunch. It was a memory loop. Old favorites revisited, new favorites discovered. And in the middle of it all? Inés—gracious, thoughtful, quietly fierce in the way she continues her family’s culinary legacy while staying fully present.
Sugi is no longer just Manila’s best kept secret. It’s a place where time folds into flavor, and where loyalty tastes like love.
So, if Manila’s Best Kept Restaurant Secrets ever returns, I already know my vote.
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