In 2018, I stood proud in Kuala Lumpur as the Philippine team I mentored brought home the award for Best Asian Showcase of the Year at Malaysia at Asia Fashion Week.
But even before that moment, one name had already taken root in my mind: Jor-el Espina.
A Filipino fashion designer whose work continues to evolve with grace, depth, and fierce integrity.
Back then, I was searching for young creatives who could carry the soul of Filipino fashion onto a larger stage. That search led me to Iloilo City—elegant, historic, quietly electric. There, I met a young designer whose voice was already his own. His lines were expressive, his sense of proportion unafraid, his reverence for heritage unmistakable. Even then, Jor-el was impossible to ignore.
A Tribute Sewn with Grace
Now, seven years later, I sit in the hush of Shangri-La’s Lobby Lounge in Makati, no longer as mentor—but as witness. Before me: Heirloom (2025), Jor-el’s newest collection, a tribute to the grande dame of Filipino fashion, Patis Tesoro.
Instead of making this milestone about himself, Jor-el turned the spotlight toward the legacy of another. It was an act of humility, but also of precision.
“If you know your worth, you’ll never need to explain your work.”
—Patis Tesoro, as recalled by Jor-el Espina
To him, Tesoro was never just a fashion icon. She was a compass.
Patis Tesoro rose to prominence in the 1970s and 1980s, celebrated for reinterpreting traditional Filipino attire like the terno and baro’t saya with bold silhouettes, natural fibers, and unapologetically local materials. She helped revive interest in piña and jusi at a time when Western fashion dominated Manila’s elite circles. Her pieces weren’t just beautiful—they were political, personal, and proudly Filipino.
A woman who made elegance unapologetic. Who used tradition as a tool, not a crutch. Who refused to be limited by the moment.
Threads of Tradition, Tailored for Today
The show began in whispers—soft tones, flowing fabrics. Then, color bloomed: bold, joyful, surprising. Petal-like embroidery unfurled across coats and tunics. Piña and silk moved with the fluidity of memory.
There was no mimicry—only restraint, guided by reverence. Shapes nodded to Tesoro’s love for volume, but moved with modern discipline. Accessories punctuated the looks, never overwhelming them.
One piece, in particular, held the air still: a piña coat detailed with callado embroidery. “The most personal piece,” Jor-el later shared. In it, he stitched together two voices—his and hers.
Heirloom isn’t just a tribute—it’s a dialogue. A conversation between two designers. A bridge across eras. A thread that connects memory to the moment.
Making Heritage Wearable
Jor-el worked closely with local artisans and weavers. He blended traditional fabrics like piña and jusi with modern dyeing and layering techniques. The result? Garments that held weight—not just physically, but emotionally.
His greatest challenge, he admitted, was avoiding the trap of costume. He didn’t want homage to feel heavy. He wanted life. Movement. Wearability.
To honor Tesoro meant to interpret her language, not recreate her words.
Even the venue was chosen with care. Shangri-La’s Lobby Lounge—with its quiet elegance and timeless lines—mirrored Tesoro’s spirit. It felt like being invited into her world, seen through a modern lens.
Actually—if it wouldn’t offend anyone—I’d call it “the duster, reinvented” (but in a good way). If that’s too cheeky, then maybe “Reimagined Pinaywear.” Either way, it’s ours. And it’s brilliant.
A Legacy Carried Forward
Throughout the process, one line from Tesoro stayed with him: “If you know your worth…” It grounded him through every choice, every seam.
Heirloom doesn’t copy. It reshapes. Tesoro’s signature exuberance—her layers, textures, and flourish—is there, but filtered through Jor-el’s own rhythm.
He has long championed Filipino materials. But in this collection, they don’t just feature. They lead, stretch and shine.
This isn’t just fashion. It’s philosophy, worn with pride.
What It Means to Be Filipino
For Jor-el, being a Filipino designer today means more than style.
“We are both guardians and storytellers,” he says. “Our job isn’t to preserve relics. It’s to turn them into living, breathing ideas.”
Heirloom is just that—a living idea. A reminder that tradition is not something we look back on. It’s something we wear forward.
That afternoon, I felt the same surge of pride I had in 2018. But this time, it wasn’t for what could be. It was for what already is.
Jor-el Espina—the once-bold newcomer from Iloilo—is no longer a promise.
He is proof that heritage, reimagined with heart, becomes legacy.
Bisou bisou.
About the Author
Dong Omaga-Diaz is a Filipino fashion designer celebrated for his couture artistry and embroidery mastery. A Lesage scholar and international awardee, he continues to shape the Philippine design scene as a mentor, educator, and cultural advocate.
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